… Dash Pod & Table — Fostering Adventure

DASH POD & TABLE/FOOT REST

A Need For More Control & ConVenience

Before

After

Although the Volvo dash board is pretty good, with lots of expansion for switches, it doesn’t provide any room for auxiliary video screens for external vehicle cameras or other dash mounted non-Volvo control panels. It also doesn’t provide any decent flat mounting places for iPad mounts or cameras for capturing what we see when looking out the windshield. So we decided that I needed to create a solution for all of these issues.

The most difficult thing we had to deal with in this project is how we accessed the fuse panel for the truck chassis, which is located under the top surface of the dashboard. The only way we can get to it is by pulling out the cup holder tray, then remove two screws, and then pry up the top of the dash panel. It’s a stupid design to put it politely. Nothing can be screwed to the top surface because right beneath it is a legend of the fuse layout, and the mechanism for the slide out cup holder. Penetration of the surface with any type of screw would ruin the fuse legend and jam the sliding cup holder tray from working. That’s why our first attempts to secure things to the top had to be done with two sided tape.

To circumvent these issues we had to design a dash pod that could be easily removed if access to the fuse tray was needed. To do this, a completely independent structure was conceived. One that was held rigid to the dashboard for collision safety, but could be removed by simply unscrewing three fasteners that thread into the thick plastic perimeter of the fuse tray. The dash pod contains a collection of electronics, the power supply and video leads of which are also quick disconnect, so removing the dash pod is easy.

Building the Pod Structure

We started by tracing the shape of the dash top surface where the pod would sit, and then enlarging the perimeter for the lid overlap.

Next was the profile of the dash front to back, which was made from recycled plywood.

The front facing side of the pod was made from thin plywood and shaped to the curvature of the dash by the windshield.

We started with oversized pieces. You can more easily cut them down than you can make them larger.

After trimming the lid a bit on one end the next step was to create the outer sidewall.

The easiest way to create the curve was to cut segments and angle the glue edges to create the unsymetrical shape.

With the end shape cut, it could be placed in position so the front face could be scribed.

The lid was temporarily pin in place so the pod could be accurately fitted to the dash top.

Because we didn’t have certain woodworking tools, we couldn’t biscuit joint the segments. So 1/8" plywood joint supports were glued on.

After sanding the segmented curve smooth on the disk sander, the joints we filled with putty.

The outside wall was then sanded with a block and hand sandpaper to smooth it out.

Placing the pod frame upside down on the lid allowed us to determine where we would make cuts to create the openings to the storage areas.

After cutting the lid, other trimming could be done to allow for the hinges.

The pod has its own floor so items can stay inside when removed. This is glueing in one of the floor pieces.

Here the lid has been glued and pinned in place, and the pin holes filled.

The final fitting before surface finishing.

This shows how the lids can all open at once, and stay open when searching for that hidden item.

Surface Finishing of the Pod

The finish application for the pod was a four step process. First was a sanding sealer, then interior white enamel, followed by the exterior texture coat and color matched latex enamel. Two steps were by spray, two by brush.

The first procedure was to spray the dash pod with a clear sanding sealer so future paint doesn’t go blotchy on us.

The interior was coated with a white brush on enamel so it was easier to see inside the small compartments.

The texture is done with a rubberized rocker panel protection product and was sprayed on from a rattle can.

The product goes on quite thick and takes a bit of practice to create a uniform texture.

Once dry, the product forms a uniform low luster finish that can be left as is, or over coated with another coating.

All sides of the dash pod were textured.

We had a colour matched enamel mixed up, and we applied it to the dash pod using a brush. Several coats were needed.

With a few touch ups done, the pod is ready for the next step.

Large flat surfaces are what tell you that a good job has been done. They are very unforgiving.

Sitting in place on the dash we could see just how well the colour matching was done.

A New iPAd Mount

By creating the new dash pod it made it possible to have a better iPad holder. One that held the iPod at the right viewing angle, and could be easily swiveled between the driver and passenger for shared use. Sure we could have used a Ram Mount of one sort or another, but here we could perfectly size it for our needs.

We had the actual iPad Ram Mount holder from before, but we created the arm and swivel mounts from aluminum bits.

The swivels were made from aluminum channel that was cut to create the more delicate shape.

The arm length was determined by placing the dash pod in the truck and fiddling with the iPad and Ram Mount for best positioning.

Once dressed up with the router and drill press, all was powder coated for an attractive finish.

Convenience and comfort

Along with the dash pod we also made a small convenience table and padded foot rest for the passenger seat of the truck cab. Fortunately we still had some of the Volvo upholstery fabric left from when we ordered the truck and bought a few extra yards of that fabric. It was used initially for covering the pass through panels that were made when the connecting tunnel was created. This fabric was also used to cover the cushions we made for the remains of the sleeper bunk that we crawl over when moving from the camper to the cab. Now we have a matching foot rest.

Four sewing machine table hinges were bought from Amazon.

A router jig was made so the recesses could be easily made.

The jig uses a collet that is screwed to the router base plate.

A second router procedure was needed to relieve an area for the hinge knuckles.

The hinges will be installed before paint so they can be coloured the same, and therefore “disappear”.

The table was first coated with a black primer so the texture paint doesn’t have to be as thick to cover completely.

The primer also etched into the brass hinges to help the other coatings to stick.

Custom fitted yokes were made so the table would sit snuggly on the dashboard.

Another router jig was made so a recess could be machined for the padded foot rest.

This jig keyed off the outside circumference of the router baseplate.

The routing sequence had to be figured out so there was always enough material under the baseplate to control the depth.

The finished recess only had to be sanded so it also could be painted.

The recess was 3/16" deep so the seams of the foot pad can be hidden below the finished surface.

A cutout was made for the bracket that will bolt to the truck A-pillar, and then masked to avoid the texture coating thickness.

Texture application had to be done in steps so all surfaces could be coated.

The pad recess didn’t need complete coating. Just the edges so they would flow under the pad edge.

The dried texture is now ready for the colour coat.

After numerous coats of colour were applied, the match with the dashboard is quite good. Even the texture helps with the match.

The foot pad is also a match to the door upholstery.