Shimizu — Fostering Adventure

Shimizu, Shizuoka Prefecture & Mt. Fuji

May 10, 2019

ARRIVAL IN SHIMIZU

Our arrival in Shimizu was perhaps one of our more anticipated stops, as this was where we would finally get to see Mount Fuji. Sure we’ve seen hundreds of photos of it in magazines, books, online and TV. But this would be different, something special to be a highlight of this whole Japan circumnavigation. Alas, it would more aptly be described as a big let down. In fact, the best view we had of Mt. Fuji was when we were entering the port at 7:00am. It was just then that we were passing Mt. Fuji, and were lucky enough to have it visible from our side of the ship, that I was able to snap some photos from the balcony of our stateroom while still in my pyjamas. It was a good thing I did, as this would be the best view for the whole day.

One of two decent shots of Mt. Fuji taken before we even docked the ship. The ship is a giant liquified natural gas bulk carrier.

Now Shimizu is in itself a favourite stop for cruise ships, and for more reasons than just having a view of the famous mountain. It’s a cultural centre as well, with many attractions that draw visitors from all over the world. But Mt. Fuji aside, it is these other attractions that would occupy the bulk of our time this day.

Our best shot of Mt. Fuji, taken before entering the harbour, from our balcony, in my pyjamas.

Dropping off the harbour pilot to guide our ship into its berth.

The pilot vessel pulling away from our ship.

Not a very impressive welcoming committee today. A few people with the city mascot.

The bridge crew after berthing the ship. Just another day on the job.

A look down the dock with the various storage warehouses.

Shizuoka Senjen Shrine

The Shizuoka Senjen Shrine is actually made up of three shrines. Kambe Shrine, Sengen Shrine (two shrines in the same building) and Otoshimioya Shrine collectively are known as Shizuoka Senjen Shrine.

Although the original formation of the shrine is unknown, people have populated this area going back to pre-historic times. Kambe Shrine is believed to date back to 97 BC to 30 BC. Unsubstantiated legend has the formation of the Otoshimioya Shrine being dated to 270AD to 310AD, and Senjen Shrine was officially established in 901 when requested so by Emperor Daigo.

Something we didn’t expect to see in a shrine was an archery dojo, especially one like this that moves on rails to change the distance to the target backstop.

All three shrines are held in high regard and have received the patronage of many powerful clans over the years. The 3rd shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu, granted the shrine land and an income for its upkeep. Sadly, the shrine was burned down in 1804 as a result of a war, but was rebuilt over the next 60 years into its present flamboyant style. Twenty-six structures within the shrine complex are protected by the government as Important Cultural Properties.

The first shot taken inside shows more insane detail within a shrine.

This is the cleansing station.

This is where the visitors to the shrine first cleanse themselves by pouring water over your hands, and then cupping water in your hands to rinse your face, and even your mouth.

The ladles are used so you never touch the water source directly, as this would defile it.

Even the sink has intricate detail carved into it.

One of three shrines stationed on this property.

Again, amazing detail.

Another of the three shrines.

You never see a roof like this back home.

The detail just never stops. Try doing this with North American building trades.

More colourful creatures to scare away evil spirits.

Another dumb tourist with a camera.

Even in shrines and temples there is restoration work going on.

An archery dojo in a shrine complex. Who'd have thought that.

Lots of bows to choose from.

The backstop for the archery targets.

The entire dojo building moves on rails to change the distance to the targets.

The rail system for the moving building.

SUMPU CASTLE PARK & MOMIJIYAMA GARDEN

Considering these structures were built over 400 years ago, you can’t but be impressed with the workmanship, especially of the rock work.

Sumpu Castle Park is located in the grounds of the former Sumpu Castle. The castle was build in 1585 and was the home of the renown shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in his later years early in the 17th century. After his death the castle was mostly destroyed by fire in 1635, and only parts of it were rebuilt. After a period spent as a home to the 34th Infantry Regiment, and use by various government offices and schools, the area was turned into a public park to serve more as a place of rest and relaxation for the citizens of the area.

School children were using the recreation area in some form of organized activity.

Although our visit to this place was fairly short, it was still long enough for us to get a good look at the outside of the remaining section of the castle and its moat. Then it was just a matter of a brisk walk over the wooden bridge and through the more recreational section of the park. Once past this we were able to enter the more densely foliated, and structured garden area that locals visit for peaceful contemplation. We even had the honour of seeing a couple in their wedding attire, after the ceremony was long over.

The castle corner and its moat.

The main entrance to the grounds of the castle and gardens.

Bronze sculptures of local residents back in the heyday of the castle.

It doesn't look like the bridge can be drawn up like castle bridges in Europe.

The secondary gate inside the grounds is pretty robust though.

This gives an idea of the size of the gate. Why would it need to be this large I wonder?

The rock work detail is very impressive.

Everywhere you look the woodwork is massive.

A very substantial door to be sure.

Koi fish looking for handouts.

Entering the recreational grounds before getting to the garden.

More tree preservation.

Another dummy taking a photo of a beautiful scene.

The garden had numerous pathways to follow.

Little waterfalls were created everywhere.

A couple of ducks heading for higher water.

Everything has to have detail in Japan. Even something as simple as an elevated walkway.

An artistic display of the grounds map.

Even mass produced fencing has to be detailed and attractive in Japan.

A water canal to bring water inside the castle grounds.

And yes, it has koi to help keep the insects in check.

Just another pretty scene.

A couple in their wedding clothes.

More beauty...

And more...

It just never stops showing off natures splendour.

More beautiful street grates.

Kunozan Toshogu Shrine

These shrines seem to have many different individual structures. Unfortunately there was nothing to tell us what one was versus another. The shrine billboards were only in Japanese script.

This shrine was dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, a famous leader (1543-1616) who brought a long period of civil wars in Japan to an end, and finally unified all of the country.

Access to the shrine was originally obtained by climbing up the mountain by means of a merciless zig-zag path with over 1000 stone steps. Although the hike provides beautiful views of Suruga Bay below, modern day visitors who would prefer easier access can do so by using a ropeway that reaches the shrine from the north side of the mountain. We elected for this northern approach instead.

For all we know, this could have been the shrine’s bar. It seemed to have a bunch of the sake barrels stacked in front of it.

The shrine is extensive and consists of a number of bright red buildings. It also has a museum which displays some of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s possessions, armour and weapons. Further in behind the shrine is the mausoleum that Ieyasu requested, since he spent his last years at the nearby Sumpu Castle.

Heading to the next shrine with Mt. Fuji barely visible through the haze.

Our ride tickets. Does the blue and pink colour refer to our gender? Hmmm…

Waiting for the current passengers to vacate the gondola.

Ready and waiting to get underway down to the shrine.

Our view of the shoreline from the gondola as we transit to the shrine.

We had to walk down a series of stairways to get to the entrance of the shrine, and then walk back up several flights to get into the shrine.

The new-ish museum building that we couldn’t access.

A view of the coast from the shrine entrance. Looks like agriculture happening in greenhouses.

One of several map billboards, both in Japanese only. So there was no way of knowing what the different buildings were.

The variety of charms and other meaningful souvenirs tourists or worshipers can buy.

More stairs. But these have a high vertical pitch that was very awkward.

We could only figure that these structures were their version of orange cones and yellow tape to keep you away.

Looking down the awkward staircase at the souvenir store on the right side.

The main entrance gate like what is seen at so many shrines.

The gate structure had two brass animal figures on guard.

It looks sort of like a lion, but with a turquoise mane.

Once through the entrance gate, another stairway had to be ascended to get to the shrine building level.

Like other shrines, this had Torii gates as well. These were bronze however.

More stairs, but this time with banners that we couldn’t read.

On yet another level before the shrine, this had a patio feel with stone lanterns placed all about.

Finally, the main shrine building. At least we think so. They had no English information pamphlets to hand out or even purchase.

Like every shrine we've seen so far, saki barrels are stacked everywhere.

Supposedly the barrels of saki are donated to the shrine so the gods will favor the saki makers with a good year.

Sounds like a pretty good deal for the monks. Of course there was no way of telling if the barrels were still full.

A couple of dumb tourists photographing the same thing.

Now the intricate detail starts.

The hours spent making all these parts must have been enormous.

The detail is mind blowing.

The colorful artwork is fantastic.

Another lion to scare away evil spirits?

Another gate that leads to a different area of the shrine grounds.

More intricate details.

It would be nice to see the shrine at night with all these lanterns lit.

A plain building compared to the rest, this is the Sacred Stable which sheltered the late Ieyasu’s living horse.

The current horse was carved in the early 17th century by a famous master carver, after the deceased real horse was discovered lying on his master’s grave.

Many of the rock sculptures have colorful lichen growing on them.

The conditions here must be perfect for lichen growth.

A building blocked by their warning “cone” system.

Large clay pots, and more saki barrels. You never see the monks. They must be sleeping off the saki effects.

We assume these are prayer plaques.

Oddly placed tiny torii gates.

Heading back out of the shrine.

Miho No Matsubara

The trees had amazing shapes to the branches. We don’t know if this natural or if it was created the same way miniature bonsai trees are sculpted.

Miho-no-Matsubara Pine Grove is regarded as one of the “three new views of Japan” and is a seven kilometre stretch of sandy coastline that hosts over 54,000 pine trees on the shores of Suruga Bay, in Shizuoka City.

The area is famous for the Hagoromo-no-Matsu, which is a folktale about a celestial angel that descended to earth to go for a swim in the bay, and hung her Hagoromo feathered kimono on a tree branch. It is said that a local fisherman found the kimono and refused to give it back to her until she danced for him. Claiming that she needed the garment in order to dance, the fisherman returned it to her where she subsequently danced for him before she ascended back into the heavens.

What was so nice about this place during our visit was the distinct lack of crowds. Only a few fishermen trying their luck.

Our visit to this historic site is only one of thousands over the years, often by artists from all over Japan, as well as others the world over who want to paint or otherwise record the unique scene that includes views of Mt. Fuji. So important is this place for Japanese culture that in 2013 this amazing landscape was listed in the Unesco World Heritage records as a "sacred place and source of artistic inspiration."

Unfortunately for us, this remarkable place was left to be our last stop of the day. The result of this delay was that the heavy haze that comes with many cities in the region, had built to such a degree that we could hardly see the mountain. So the single most important reason for us to visit this place, seeing Mt. Fuji, was ruined because the tour guide thought we would find visiting our 20th+ shrine/temple of the trip more important than seeing one of the most iconic and beautiful natural creations on Mother Earth. Still, the pine forest and beach topography was beautiful, and it was easy to see how artists and poets could find inspiration here.